More than Abba

This is a first attempt at something akin to travel writing - I would like to submit it as an example to a magazine in order to be considered as a candidate for work experience next Easter/summer, so I would so very grateful at any reviews received; good or bad, in the hope that I can get it up to high enough standard. Thanks in advance for any who read this! :)

In a series of novels based in an alternate reality of Aberystwyth, local man Malcolm Pryce names the town a place where anything can and will happen; meanwhile, a not-so-positive guidebook refers to it as a bland seaside town where students have spoiled the traditionally quaint aesthetics that once made it attractive. I, however, would go to neither extreme to describe Aberystwyth (pronounced Abba-us-tw-ith), the little seaside town that dominates Mid Wales. Somewhere in between these two descriptions would perhaps be more accurate.

A seemingly sleepy town on the West coast of Mid Wales, quaintly snuggled between Constitution Hill, Penglais Hill and Pen Dinas Hill, Aberystwyth is situated some three from Birmingham. That being said, Aber is not too difficult to get to. Trains run every two hours to Shrewsbury, and then beyond into the depths of England. The A44 runs smoothly from Worcester to Aber – just expect some winding of the road, and the occasional pothole and you will soon learn to love the adorable Welsh roads that make Wales known for its rurality; the gorgeously rolling hills, unkempt hedges, sheep, and the odd little, quaint village every now and then, which may, if lucky, house a petrol station and toilets. Though the journey is long from just about anywhere further than Machynlleth, you will hopefully feel a sense of accomplishment upon safely arriving in Aberystwyth. With reaching the top of Penglais Hill comes an emotion akin to enlightenment, because from there the town can be seen stretching out between Consti and Pen Dinas Hills, and the sea that marks the western boundary sparkling in the summer sun (if coming during the winter, please expect to see much of the colour grey).

If travelling from South Wales, Arriva buses run at fairly decent intervals, from Cardiff, Swansea, Carmarthen, and many little villages in between! Though perhaps not the best mode of transport around some of Wales’ most rural routes for those prone to motion sickness, the scenery along the way cannot be faulted. When travelling from Cardiff, be sure to pack some sandwiches (preferably minus tuna mayo – nobody wants to travel four hours in a fishy bus) to avoid embarrassing the fellow passengers with persistent tummy rumbles. Failing that, an iPod with a full battery to block out those persistent growls also works wonders. Four hours will fly by! You will approach Aber from the bottom, thus reaching a series of highly attractive roundabouts. However, you will not be disappointed! You will realise that not only does such a small town house a Morrison’s but a newly (and proudly) opened Dominoes too! Aberystwyth – the town that never disappoints!

Sitting in the glowing spotlight of Aberystwyth University, which watches from its point of majesty on Penglais Hill, Aber could be argued as being the backbone of Mid Wales. Chosen as the location for not only the university - incidentally, the first University of Wales - but also the National Library of Wales, in which is shelved a copy of every single book published in Wales; and the recently built Welsh Assembly Government buildings (directly, it might be ironically added, on the floodplain that WAG themselves identified as a high risk flood zone). If power is what you want to see, then Aberystwyth wields plenty of it.

Very much reliant upon summer tourists, the town sinks into a grey hibernation during the winter months, waiting for signs of holiday makers while the white waves crash over the sea wall, drenching the promenade with grey gravel that turns the intricately tiled prom into a gravel bar. Only the students can be found battling against the vicious November tides that hunt out the weak-kneed, soaked through all layers by the waves that cascade over the top of the barriers. All in order to watch the sparkling array of fireworks that explode from the sands of South Beach on the fifth of November. Only the students can be seen trekking up Penglais Hill at half past the hour between eight and five to get to lectures on time, dressed for the Arctic conditions they expect to feel, instead of purchasing a bus pass for a year’s worth of travel.

Yet it is these ‘poor’ students that keep the town alive with morale during these cold months and that keep the shops open; poor as they may be, new clothes are still high on the priority list of a student!

On the greyest days of the Winter, when walking along the prom towards Consti, the hill that eclipses the northern edge of town, and home to the ‘largest camera obscura’ in the world, you would be easily forgiven in mistaking it as a film set for a crime movie. In the shadow of Constitution Hill, under a heavy duvet of ominous black clouds, there is something slightly eerie about the blue, pink and cream houses that line the promenade, seemingly shrinking back from the gravel-loaded waves that arch with ease over the chipping white railings to send it load slamming into the pavements. The closed and boarded P.D’s Diner on the prom, and broken windows of the closed-down club, The Bay, only add to the eeriness. If this feeling threatens to overwhelm you, just remember that Aberystwyth has one of the lowest crime rates of all UK towns.

If you do happen to visit Aber during the months where the shops shut at 5pm, there is much to do. This is when the indoor amusements thrive on the Pier. Play on the brightly lit assorted amusements in the arcade; play snooker in the bar behind the arcade; have a luxurious meal in the restaurant. For those who love movies, take a trip to the Commodore Cinema – a quaintly old-fashioned theatre-cinema, brimming with old-school character that is sure to put a smile on your face. For the budding historian, the Ceredigion Museum on Terrace Road is open 10 till 4 on weekdays, and is free entry to those wanting to learn the history that is deeply embedded into the present Aberystwyth. For the culture-enthusiast, buzzing to embrace the eclectic nature of Aber, there is the Arts Centre on the university campus, which shows a colourful range of theatre productions, from classics to musicals. There is also a small cinema there, a bookshop, and a cafe that sells delicately homemade treats of all kinds. For the more scientifically/medically inclined Bronglais Hospital sits comfortably half way up Penglais Hill, and is open to the public most hours of the day. If you like to laugh, just wait awhile until evening falls, because the likelihood of seeing a fancy dress parade heading towards the clubs is extremely high. the unusual willingness of Aber students to look hilarious, and their open friendliness, is one of the things that makes this town so fabulous.

Of course, these activities are in no way limited to the winter months. Aberystwyth, however, as with most seaside towns, comes alive when the sun breaks free of its grey hibernation blanket, and locals and students alike cheer as summer arrive. The first sign is the reopening of P.D.’s Diner on the seafront – makers of fantastic homemade ice cream in all flavours, from traditional vanilla, to bubblegum.... The overstuffed, angry, ready-to-burst rainclouds are replaced by lazy, fluffy white ones, floating around the sapphire sky, purposeless but for occasional offerings of shade away from the heat of the sun.

The sea holds the biggest attraction. With the glittering water, and the summer heat, the desire to swim is great, and understandable. If you want to get beyond the stony beach, why not rent an inflatable boat from the market hall next to the castle? The perfect way to enjoy the sea, without having to get wet! If you are a parent with small children, why not visit the paddling pool on the North Beach promenade? If you are a sporty individual, bikes can be rented from next to the paddling pool, and if you like music, the bandstand comes alive with the charming lure of guitars on most Sundays, along with street theatre acts such as poi and juggling. South Beach, in contrast to North, is generally quieter, with barbecue scents wafting from the Hut, which also sells ice creams. Why not visit the harbour, and the castle? The castle, dating from around the twelfth century, is mostly in ruins, but a great historical wonder, and playground for all ages.

For lunch, asides from ice creams, most locals would agree when I suggest Morgan’s cafe on Terrace Road, where they serve fantastic all day breakfasts, from half-size portions to the Morgan’s Monster for the famished. Alternatively, consider Morgan’s Butchers around the corner. For under £3, you can have a roast dinner in a bap, with all the trimmings, and a chat with the lovely, bold Welshman who runs the place from behind his counter – who will know instantly if you are new to the area, and will be ever so willing to lend a snippet of advice about his beloved town.

If in the evening you want somewhere traditional that keeps with the quaintness of the town, I suggest Rummer’s – the delightful pub on the edge of the harbour. A candlelit bar with a 1950's fisherman’s decor, Rummer’s is a wonderful place to chill out with a cheeky drink to end the day. Warm and friendly, be sure to nab the sofa seats by the window overlooking the harbour for added comfort, and if hunger strikes grab a menu before 10pm and try one of their many fabulous pizzas.

Yet, let’s not forget possibly the main reason that makes Aberystwyth such a beautiful place. Trust me when I say that, just as the air begins to cool, put on your walking boots and take the path up to the top of Constitution Hill. There, take a seat on the grass, overlooking the whole of Aberystwyth, and the sparkling, glittering sea, and watch the sun sink silently into the shimmering waters. Watch as the sun becomes a radiant rainbow of reds, oranges and purples, and correct me if I am wrong – it is one of the most wonderful sights to ever be seen.

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Perhaps, then, that the description given by the more lenient of the guidebooks and the Louie Knight series referred to earlier is indeed the more accurate – a place where anything can (and will) happen. After all, only in Aberystwyth could a man with a ponytail and a tortoiseshell cat perched upon his shoulder be accepted without question as a ‘local legend’, only in Aber could a pizza company hire willing students to stand on the pavements handing out pizza menus and vouchers...whilst wearing a giant pizza box, and only here is a morning swim before breakfast as the sun rises possible. Not to mention that sunset...