Relics of Indian Uprising in Delhi

History is strewn at every step of Delhi, so much so that it tends to get ignored as commonplace. But then, quietly, from the veil of hum-drum plainness of everyday life the reminiscent past peeps out, rejecting the semblance of predictability. That’s what makes this city so enigmatic.

Walking down the trail of history, recreating demarche of uprising, we stole one such peek into bygone days by tracing Mutiny.



The journey began from Badli ki Srai- 2 miles outside Delhi, where British claimed their first victory. Once an imposing travelers’ inn, majestically standing either side of the G. T. road, it is today embodied by remains of two gates across a lawn. This façade made up of Lakhauri bricks witnessed the fierce and decisive battle that granted British hold over entire ridge- from Flagstaff Tower to Bara Hindu Rao. Today, it stands desolate, surrounded by advancing concrete jungle threatening to usurp it. G. T. road is also gone- shifted to front.



Tallest building of its time- gothic style flagstaff tower was created as a watch tower. It is difficult to imagine that this conical structure hid a large number of European women and children. From the top of this brick and mortar structure is revealed a view of ridge full of tall planted trees; which was once barren, marked by stray scrubby vegetation.



A pleasant walk across the ridge brought us to Charbuja- hunting lodge built by Firozshah Tughlaq. Though mauled by Gadar, it still retains its sublime beauty. Ordinary looking ground floor gives way to stunning arches and lofty domes on the first floor. Cannon ball marks and broken walls only add to its mysticism.



Next destination was Pir Ghayab- an observatory constructed by Firozshah that was also home to a mystic who achieved unification with God during his meditations; thus, was named Pir Ghayab- the sage who disappeared. A flight of cumbersome, steep stairs led to the top of the building. A hole through the roof and ceiling suggested presence of a now gone telescope. Like the former relic, it also bore marks of combat.



Close to Pir Ghayab stood Baolli of Hindu Rao- the Maratha chieftain who also owned Bara Hindu Rao. Bara Hindu Rao was a house constructed by William Frazer, is now converted to a hospital. It’s strikingly colonial architecture has merged into its insignificant, utilitarian hospital surroundings. Tiling of outer veranda has turned once ‘had- been’ majestic exterior to ghastly.



Battle field stretched out in form of a corridor with Yamuna on one side and ridge - Aravali on other side and walled city beyond it; however none of the former two remain today- Yamuna receded back and Aravalli trampled.

British army formation was mounted to take full advantage of the topography, with pickets at Flag staff Tower, Chaurbuja, Peer Ghayab and Bara Hindu Rao with Yamuna giving cover to left flank. Rebels occupied walled city and made advances from Subji Mandi area. They attacked ridge and Bara Hindu Rao. Though rebels were pushed back to Shahjahanabad, losses on English side were heavy.



Final destination for first day was Mutiny Memorial- rechristened as ‘Ajitgarh’ by Indian Government. Original plaque mounted over it mentions names of those who laid down their lives while fighting against rebels. A plaque by Government of India makes amendment by granting rebels their righteous martyr status.

Day two was yet another glimpse of days of beginning of Raj.

Marching through S. P. Mukharji Road- originally known as Queen’s Road, we reached our first destination The Magazine.  It had been a grand ammunition house but was blown away by British themselves for the fear of Mutineers laying hands on it. Its remnants are two brick colored gates, which today stand ignored middle of a bustling road.

From the magazine, is seen Lothian Bridge, Lothian cemetery- the first British cemetery of India; and GPO –colonial symbols telling saga of beginning of Raj.

At a little distance, towards north stands the telegraph memorial tower commemorating two slain telegraph employees of East India Company. Half hidden by growing vegetation, it is often overlooked. With its inscription fading to become illegible, it goes along with day’s work- quietly observing its surrounding world on the go. When mutiny broke out, at this very place stood a wooden telegraph cabin manned by two employees - Pilkington & Brendish, trying to figure out as to what has gone wrong with the telegraph lines. Unrest in the street was rising and there were hundreds of people swarming around- hinting something is not quiet right. A wounded British soldier shouted outbreak of trouble and cautioned telegraph workers to stay safe. These two, sensing the gravity of situation, tried to mend the broken link and succeeded in sending across message of mutiny to Ambala. “We are off” was their last message before cabin was burnt down. Robert Montgomery commented “The Electric Telegraph has Saved India” when this granite tower was erected in 1902. 



Across the road, in the compound of Guru Gobind Singh IP University is the residence of first British Resident- David Octerlony. This is a curious structure; a mélange of East- West. With the original Lakhauri bricked arched structure retained at the back and tall pillared front giving impression of imposing colonial exterior indicate the personality of its owner Octerlony and influence his domineering head concubine Genaralee Begum had on him. This juxtaposition of culture and sliding timelines also presents a snapshot of society of 19th century India.

Originally built as library of Dara Shikoh that housed literary treasures of this intellectual son of Shah Jahan the relic has been through rise and fall of history.  Dara’s murder by Aurangzeb in 1659, threw it in possession of Ali Mardan Khan – a leading general and eventually British acquired it from Marthas and converted the remains as per their suitability. Today it is ASI library.

Promenading the Bara Bazaar- shopping arcades of British hinting its faded glory, we came to Old building of St. Stephan’s college- standing either side of the road, stunning by its bright brick red appearance and then passed through Hindustani answer to former- The Hindu college and reached Kashmiri Gate. Kashmiri Gate- pockmarked by cannon balls and bullets- became the entry point into walled city for British after the final battle of uprising. 

Next destination was the oldest church of Delhi- St. James church which is a replica of St. Paul’s Cathedral. It was built by mercenary cavalier Col James skinner whose ‘skinner’s horse’ still form part of Indian Army. In the church premises are buried three friends; James Skinner, William Fraser & Charles Metcalf. Also resting herein is the discontented Ramachandra – the professor of mathematics and first Indian to convert to Christianity. He was exiled by Indians for the reason of conversion and excluded by British for being Indian.

We moved to Nicholson’s cemetery; named after Brigadier Nicholson who died fending off rebels. He was all of 35. But then, walk in the cemetery revealed a striking fact- British in India died young; almost all the gravestones indicated depart in the prime!

Last of all was mid 18th century Qudsia Bagh, a lush green garden created by Qudsia Begum – wife of Emperor Muhammad shah Rangeela. The Bagh stretched out to Yamuna banks and was bordered by Qudsia Mahal, which no longer exists, but there remains the private mosque of Emperor and queen- Qudsia mosque now inhibited by its keepers, bearing marks of armed tussle of revolt.

Here ended the trail of mutiny- with victory to British and a beginning to Raj- but did it, actually? It only gave a strong foundation and ideological alignment to freedom struggle in time to come. Thus, to put it correct, uprising had sawn the seeds and given direction for Gandhi to tread on and rewrite the history.