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Rated: E · Non-fiction · Other · #1737535
My first experience at an authentic New Orleans Vodou ceremony.
“How do I look?” I asked Sky as I stood barefoot, looking in the mirror at myself. I was dressed in a long white skirt, white shirt, and a red head wrap.
“You look great. Now, let’s go or we will be late,.“ Sky grabbed my arm and we headed out of the hotel room to a genuine New Orleans Vodou ceremony.
Sky was an initiated member of the Vodou house there so she had been to other ceremonies. But it was the first time I had been to a New Orleans ceremony. I was nervous but so excited. I can’t explain how “special” I felt walking in my whites and honoring my ancestors by attending the ceremony and worshipping with a community that was quickly becoming like family to me.
Sallie Ann Glassman, the head manbo, or Vodou Priestess in this house led the ceremony off with a brief explanation that this would be a “curtailed” public ceremony but still a “real” ceremony.
The ceremony began with prayers and singing and drumming. We sang the songs we knew and danced with the rhythm of the drums.
While the house members and guests were singing, Sallie Ann drew what are known as veve’s. These are drawings made with cornmeal on the ground to generate energy to bring specific spirits down. The same regimen is followed for each ceremony. The only difference is which Saint or Spirit we are honoring. The ceremony consists of a mock battle between the asson, the main instrument of the manbo or houngan (the Voudou Priest), and a machete’ that is used to open up the crossroads between the visible and invisible worlds.
The asson overtakes the machete’ and then the machete’ joins the Drapo or flag bearers. The flag bearers carry handmade, Haitian, sequined flags. Then the trio circles the group, offering the ends of the Drapo and machete’ for people to touch for a blessing.
After another series of prayers to the Earth and the four elemental corners, Sallie Ann came around with the asson. She rattles it to raise up ashe’ in order for the Lwa or Spirit to come down for a possession.
I had never seen that part. And when Sallie Ann approached me with the asson, I froze. I had no idea what she wanted me to do. She stood there smiling, obviously wondering what I was doing as I gaped openly at her. She reached out and put her hand on my shoulder and lovingly turned me around so that my back was facing her. I was kind of freaked out until I heard the asson over my head. Sallie Ann was just trying to raise all of our ashe’ or energy so we could bring down the Lwa or Spirit.
I felt the energy in my body start to tingle in the top of my head where she was rattling the asson. I felt the tingle of energy surging through my being as I listened intently to the asson that was encircling my body. Even though there were a lot of people, around 50-75, standing there staring at us it didn’t seem to bother me. I felt at peace as I let my energy flow, paying no attention to anything or anyone around me. It was a beautiful feeling.
But before I could enjoy it too long, it started to fade. I realized Sallie Ann had finished as she tapped me on the shoulder and turned me around again. She motioned for me to start dancing in a circle. I jumped into step behind Sky and danced as best as I could still reeling from the surge of energy.
As I danced I lost myself in the moment and swayed with the drumming. Sallie ended the rounds with the asson and started praying. Her words were in Haitian Creole but we all knew she was calling down the Spirit called Oggun, the Spirit of war.
Using gunpowder, Sallie Ann set the warrior’s veve on fire and continued praying. Then, in an instant, the whole energy field of the area shifted and as we all looked around a light came on and everybody saw our guest had arrived. Sallie Ann was possessed by Oggun. The Spirit had taken over Sallie Ann’s body.
The Spirit strode around the circle with an air of bravado waving his machete’. He pranced, his head held high, as in victory. His air of authority filled the entire area.
Oggun had one of his helpers single out the owner of the gallery where we were performing. Oggun thanked them in gruff Creole for allowing us there and for what they were attempting to do for the community. He heartily rapped them on the back as a sign of goodwill. Then Oggun gave the group a few rum bathes or blessings and then as quickly as he came, he left. Sallie Ann’s body sat down next to a building and put her head on her knees. The attendants brought her water and made sure she was ok. She stood up strong with a huge smile on her face as everyone told her about what Oggun had said and done. She had no recollection of it. The person possessed rarely remembers anything from the time of possession.
That night changed me in such a way that my life seemed somewhat greater, with a higher purpose than before. I had witnessed something beautiful and I knew it.
New Orleans Vodou has had many myths circulated about it, but in reality, it is just a simple religion that seeks to help heal our Earth and its citizens.


The End
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