June BVN Article

From Sea and Sky-to the Bottom of the World.

For an exhilarating, yet healing and refreshing destination, bordered by the rhythm of the waves from both the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean-little comes closer to perfection, than the South Island of New Zealand. Few tiny islands of a similar scale and sweeter seclusion offer such a mix of contrasting and extreme destinations, wonderfully wild weather and simply stunning landscapes. All within just a little over a day’s drive. Whether you’re looking for an absolute adrenaline rush from a mix of surfboarding, followed by a spot of snowboarding, and a bungy jump down a steep and scary river canyon in the Southern Alps. Or enjoying the more relaxed pleasure of sipping on a world-class chardonnay from a Northern, European-inspired vineyard, chased down with a smooth, hearty, Southern-made beer in a Scottish-heritage city. In whatever extremes, the South Island has the rare ability to ensnare every visitor and native, alike, with its unique, as well as highly infectious distinction of being every sort of safe harbor possibly imaginable.

As one of the three main islands that make up the small Pacific nation of New Zealand, it has a modest and scattered population of slightly over a million people, out of a total population of just over four million inhabitants. From coast to coast, the South Island features many varied and wild landscapes. Mountains, rivers and coastal plains. Many of these geographic highlights are powerful and moody or strangely remote and pretty, whilst still others seem to almost exist within another realm altogether. Whichever direction that you choose to go in, you can be sure to discover a whole lot of clean, green space and serenity under ever-widening skies.

For its sheer simplistic beauty, my choice out of all of the South Island destinations would have to be the Aoraki region of the South Island. I like it because it’s a little bit more “off the beaten track” by comparison with the traditional South Island tourism routes. The scenery is diverse, and everywhere you turn, there’s the majestic backdrop of the Southern Alps beckoning you to embark on your next great adventure. It’s located on the East Coast, and considered to be a ‘gateway’ for exploring several natural history wonders, including Maori rock art and drawings (dating back to the 16th century), and the small settlements nestled in amongst river valleys and gorges. My great-grandparents first settled in this region in the 1840s, alongside many other colorful characters—early Maori settlers, and European pioneers, alike. The central region also hosts New Zealand’s highest mountain peak, Mt Cook (Aoraki). There are agricultural towns and villages, dotted with orchards and vineyards, surrounded by heritage walking trails and wetlands. Yet, there’s also a nearby port and seaside city, with vibrant and creative artisans. In addition, there’s a tiny place out in the “wop-wops” well-worth mentioning, called “The Tin Shed” where local women sell wonderful, hand-made sheepskin, woolen and other naturally New Zealand items. This thriving, good old-fashioned country store was originally a grain storage shed on a 600 acre farm (ranch). Just another example of the characteristically charming ingenuity of the New Zealand (Kiwi) people.

Out beyond the isolated, inland areas of the South Island, there are four major metropolitan cities, who all share a common history of being bustling sea ports. Nonetheless, each one has delightful points of difference. To the North, there’s Nelson, with a warm, sunny, temperate climate, and an air of the carnivalesque about it. To the South, there’s the very “English” city of Christchurch, which is almost more like London than London itself, with its lush gardens, parks, terraces and tree-lined
avenues.

Even deeper South, and that much closer to Antarctica, is the charmingly chilly city of Dunedin. With its looming Gothic architecture, Scottish settler heritage, this place has a character all its own, thanks in part to the city’s large population of university students.

Another lovely aspect of the South Island, is that the main population centers are bordered by conservation parks, where the nation’s flora and fauna is protected, yet still visible for all to see and appreciate. In addition to preservation, these sites are purposefully nurtured for the enjoyment of outdoor recreation and extreme sports.

South Islanders, are, without generalizing too much, a pragmatic and friendly bunch. A viable topic of conversation is generally to be found in a frank and full discussion of the current state of the weather. There’s a good reason for that-many livelihoods there quite literally depend upon the climate, which is not always the safest of bets, given that the South Island in particular has such dynamic and ever-changing weather patterns, of close to mythical proportions. Be prepared for anything by wearing plenty of easily shed layers of practical clothing. Being subjected to “four seasons in one day” is a frequent observation from visitors. Good, solid shoes are not to be overlooked, either.

Wherever you choose to lay your hat and/or your head here is entirely up to you. Everything is fairly widely available and accessible by way of guest facilities, from luxurious and extremely private alpine, lake or marine lodges (accessible only by boat or helicopter), to comfortable youth and backpackers hostels. If you wanted to have a more ‘authentic’ Kiwi cultural encounter, you might wish to try the ‘farmstay’ option, where you stay with a South Island family, based on a pre-determined holiday package that is usually all-inclusive. Sometimes, this option is combined with a particular outdoor activity, such as horse-trekking or jet-boating.

Through the swishing sea spray and soft marine layer is secretive little island that is well worth the time of everyone on this planet. In fact, New Zealand as a whole has earned a reputation as being “Godzone”-a title most deservedly gifted to this natural wonder that exists so humbly and peacefully at the bottom of the world.